Annapurna Circuit Day 5 -- rakshi

Today we passed 3,000 meters, and it is a bit more difficult and a bit colder, but the scenery is no less spectacular. Those big 8,000 snow-capped peaks are always there in the background, laughing at us, teasing us, and making us feel meek and humble.

I understand Jibi's system better now. His rule for a good place is simple: good room, good food, good boss. The good boss is particularly important because a good boss is one who takes care of the guides. Some bosses (apparently) separate the guides and porters from the tourists, making them eat outside or in a place less desirable than the dining room. But the bosses Jibi selects, who are also his friends, who always come from one of the Buddhist castes, not only treat him nicely, but they also give him rakshi, the homemade Tibetan "wine" that is fermented from black millet. I haven't tasted it myself but it has led to some good story-telling.

Without exception, every Nepali I have met loves Prachanda, the Maoist Prime Minister. They claim he has not only brought peace, but he also has reduced taxes, he is helping the poor, and he is doing away with the caste system.

"He is a brahmin but he is getting rid of the caste system!"

They toast Prachanda and clink their glasses of rakshi. I clink my glass of beer with them; the rakshi is clear, and it looks like vodka to me, so I avoid it.

They also say the old king, Birendra, was good, but he was killed by his son and then the new king, Gyanendra, was very bad.

"So what has Prachanda done with Gyanendra?" I asked.

"Hah - hah!" they all laughed. "He had to leave his palace and go to his country house, out in the jungle, with the monkeys! And that's where he belongs--with the monkeys!" Clink! clink!

The evening story-telling has been good fun, but now I will stop drinking beer until I'm over the pass. I'm woried about altitude sickness, and I don't want a hangover to complicate the matter.