Saturday, October 25, 2008

Annapurna Circuit Day 2 -- Jibi


"I'm a small man but I have big power," says Jibi, who is about half my size. He is leading me and carrying my backpack.

Jibi has been a guide for 20 years. At more than 10 treks per year, he has guided more than 200 expeditions, and he knows people from all over the world. He has strong opinions about the peoples of the world, and he's not afraid to tell them.

"Russians!" he snorted as we were eating lunch near a table of Russian-speakers. "I think Russians and Israelis are the same caste."

"The same CASTE??" I asked, incredulously.

"Yes, the low caste," he continued, "Germany people, Holland people, USA people, Swiss people, they are the high caste."

I was part shocked and part amused. I asked him to explain this system.

"Russian people or Israeli people, when I bring to a village, they must see every Guest House, every bed, every toilet, they want to decide, such a big headache! Koreans, too. But Germany people, USA people, I choose the Guest House, they are very nice people, high caste."

I am here for the first time but Jibi has done this trek 40 times; so, he should know where the best Guest Houses are.

Being a high-caste tourist has other obligations, too: I must let Jibi fuss over my comfort. He always asks, "Can I get you something?" and I must let him bring me coffee, tea, or a beer. He makes sure I have proper bedding and always finds the nicest room. He orders my breakfast and then supervises its cooking in the kitchen. It's like having a man-servant 24-hours a day. He even offered to wash my clothes, but I said no.

Even for a high-caste tourist, there's a limit on how high is high.

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